Ramadan

Ramadan began on September 24th. This is the holiest month of the Islamic calendar. One of the 5 pillars of Islam is fasting during this month. That means that every good Muslim in the world right now is not eating or drinking from sunrise to sunset. I am also fasting. It is really difficult... I live in a desert but cannot drink water.

I have to say, even though it is painful, it is one of the coolest experiences I've had here. It almost feels like I'm participating in the culture. I began fasting the day after I arrived from the USA, and I announced it to all Muslims I knew whenever possible, "Hey, how are you?" "I'm fasting." It's much easier to starve if you know that most of the city is starving with you. It makes the mind much much slower... a fact to which companies are sensitive, and therefore don't mind letting us leave the office at 3:00. Then, a little after 6 pm, the minarets will start ringing with chanting and you know it's time to eat. The eating is called Iftar...it's a huge sumptuous feast shared among family or community. (My stomach is growling as I write this)

I told my colleague Mohammed that I was fasting (we don't see each other much, just in the hall sometimes). He said Really!? Why? I said to understand the culture more, to see what it is like. His face was so warm and happy. He said, Thank you. Another time, I went to a restaurant for Iftar. At 6, people were lining up at the all-you-can-eat buffet. A waiter asked me, are you fasting? (I think as a tease) I said yes. He looked so surprised and gracious. He said "please, welcome..." and guided me into the line.

I can't tell you how good that feels. One of my biggest frustrations here is that I'm always on the outside. I am not accepted here. I am white. I am American. I am a woman. I am not muslim. For various combinations of these reasons, I'm not allowed to go inside mosques, not allowed to travel to Saudi Arabia where most of my research is done, am acquainted with less than 5 Emiratis. The fact that I am here "alone" (without my family), I don't mind grocery shopping at midnight, I walk on the sidewalk holding hands with a boy (just holding hands!) makes me a cultural violation. So for the first time, in Ramadan, I have felt like I'm part of a community.

If I have to be hungry to feel welcome, I'll be hungry.

Of course the purpose of Ramadan is not starvation for it's own sake. As I understand it, it's to experience going without and at the same time, giving to the less fortunate. Something like serving god through serving the poor and also humbling yourself. I do have a greater appreciation for what it's like to go hungry all day, as at least a billion people in the world do, but I haven't yet found the best way for me to give. I am not Muslim, so I think I can think of something more personal than donating meat to a mosque. I have until Oct. 22nd to figure it out.